Discussing the video - What Kind of Finish Should You Use? | WOOD FINISHING BASICS

I've been watching this video - What Kind of Finish Should You Use? | WOOD FINISHING BASICS

In this video, Steve is saying that oil doesn't offer much protection, less than Watco mix oil/poly. What about this kind of finish (Kunos from Livos)? It is all natural linseed oil based but has a bunch of wax mixture in it (https://livos.com/images/documentation/en-us/technicalDataSheets/TDS_243_KUNOS_Countertop-Oil.pdf). I think this would offer a better protection than normal oil finishes.


  • Ted BergTed Berg Posts: 491 admin
    Have not used that product. For food grade stuff, I use combo mineral oil and bees wax heated up in pan on stove for a durable soft feel. No concerns on sanding, eating from ,etc. I refresh cutting boards with this about 1 time a year. I agree plain oil does not protect much and will dry out over time. I like lacquer but it is not always compatible with stuff. I usually do not use coating stuff like polyurethane as it just lays on top and when it chips, a pain to resolve. I built a marimba with 53 rosewood keys all about 1 foot by 2.5 inches. I used watco teak oil, which has a varnish component, and it looks perfect after a few years with no drying out or color change. I used two coats brushed on, allowing each to soak about 20 minutes before wiping off. Not an expert here, but my 2 cents.
  • PaulseanPaulsean Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭✭
    Really depends on what you are using it on...
    Have People say to me "I wish that I could do that." I respond with "Did someone tell you that you couldn't."
  • TimG45TimG45 Posts: 121 ✭✭✭
    I'm with Ted - heated USP mineral oil (the kind that be used as a laxative - it's available pretty cheaply in most pharmacies) and bee's wax for food grade finishes. Shellac can be added to the mix or added over the top of the oil/wax mixture that has fully soaked in. Paraffin can be used as a less expensive substitute for the bee's wax and raw linseed oil can be used instead of the USP mineral oil. All are considered food safe. A little goes a long way. I redid a 24" x 24" x 2" maple cutting board and used less than a cup of the oil doing both sides with 2 applications on each side.
    I would not use baby oil or other mineral oil as they contain fragrances and other additives that may not be considered food safe. The same applies to boiled linseed oil - the boiling process adds a metallic component that is not food safe.
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