Shop Trash Can

Looked around shop today and asked myself, why does this wood guy have a plastic trash can? No more! Cut a pine construction 4 foot 2x4 up. 1/16 inch slats for horizontals, 1/8 inch slats for verticals, and glued up shorts cut to a 32 inch diameter circle for the bottom. Final glue up for carrying handle area in progress. Teak oil and then done.


  • frehleycometfrehleycomet Posts: 1,184 ✭✭✭
    Very nice, Too nice for a shop though. I would use it as a hamper
  • buddystacybuddystacy Posts: 526 ✭✭✭
    Very nice!
    "I just make saw dust and give away whatever is left over"
  • rethoorethoo Posts: 48 ✭✭
    Great project @Ted Berg .... could you please give some final dimensions ... thank you. Since your picture shows the basket to be 16 slats tall, I'm guessing that it is approximately 24 inches tall. Do the 4 ft long slats go all the way around the circumference ... i.e. is the diameter about 15 inches? Thanks.
  • Ted BergTed Berg Posts: 491 admin
    edited January 16
    @rethoo Thanks. In my post, I said it was 32 inch diameter, meant circumference, oops! Okay, there are actually 15 slats 1/16 inch thick and a bottom board 3/4 inch thick that make the basket shape. 1 more is for the wrap around bottom slat which actually covers the side of the bottom piece and bottom of the vertical slats so it is not adding to the vertical height. 1 additional top slat again is a wrap around slat to cover the top woven slat for better appearance purposes. Each slat is .75 inch wide (tall) and yes each was cut about 38 inches long which gave a bit of overlap that I trimmed off with dike cutters. I did not glue the horizontal slats (except the top and bottom wrap arounds) at all and let the ends overlap about 1 inch to allow for some expansion and contraction as the environment changes. There were 12, 3/4 inch, vertical slats placed at 30 degree intervals I cut to about 16 inches at 1/8 inch thick. So 17 horizontals at 1/16 and 12 verticals at 1/8 resulted in using about 2.5 inches of the 3 and 1/2 inch 2x4. Note saw blade kerf used up most of the difference. Final dimensions were 10.5 inch bottom diameter and about 11.5 inch top diameter and overall height about 11.25 inches and circumference of about 33 inches.

    I did nothing special to get a slow increase in diameter but I like it vs. a constant diameter cylinder. It just kind of happens as you weave the pieces in. The size approximated the plastic can I had, so it works fine and uses plastic grocery bags perfectly as the disposable liner. If I did it again, I would have used more of the 2x4 to cut the verticals longer than 16 inches. What happens is as you weave the horizontals initially it is very easy to bend the 1/16 inch slats as the verticals are easily wiggled in and out. But as you weave more and more, the verticals become tight and bending the final few horizontals, I cracked a couple and had to recut. If the verticals would have been cut longer, I would have had more wiggle room on the last few. Either way, you cut off the verticals to match the horizontal height at the end. By the way, you probably figured this out, but I did use part of the other 1/2 of the 2x4 to glue up a bottom piece for the can. Then I cut a circle shape on the bandsaw. I was also very liberal with teak oil on finishing, and I noticed the stress on the horizontals eased a bit from "wetting" the wood with the oil. I also used a heat gun I have before I oiled the basket to also ease the pressure on the slats. I did not find any cracking as yet and I think after a week, everything has relaxed to the new shape. To me, the most critical things were truing up the 2x4 on the jointer and making sure my table saw blade was very well aligned to the fence so the 1/16 inch cuts were very consistent.

    Last thoughts. Initially, I glued and shot brads into the bottom of the verticals into the basket bottom side at the 30 degree marks. Let the glue dry well because the weaving will pull out the verticals from the pressure. I had trouble and as a solution, I wrapped twine around the top of the verticals to hold them in place until I got about 4 horizontal slats woven in. After about 4 wraps, everything is really stable so take off the string. When installing the final top and bottom wrap around slats, I got impatient with the bottom and used a few screws to hold in place while glue dried. I did not want the screws there, but dummy me forgot I made holes, so the screws stayed. I took my time on the top wrap and clamped each one and let dry over night. It is just a shop trash can, so no biggee, but I am sort of pissed I took the shortcut on the bottom wrap.
  • rethoorethoo Posts: 48 ✭✭
    @Ted_Berg Thank you for the detailed directions and lessons learned. You've inspired me to give this project a try. Thanks again.
  • TimG45TimG45 Posts: 121 ✭✭✭
    @Ted Berg Very nice! Did you steam or heat the wood before bending?
  • Ted BergTed Berg Posts: 491 admin
    @TimG45 heat on the last few horizontals. Then heat overall when done with project to ease tensions.
Sign In or Register to comment.